Car sound system

each coil's 2 ohms, so the amplifier sees 1 ohm

and if you have a DVC (dual voice coil) speaker, you HAVE to wire both coils

So a dual 2 ohm sub can be wired to either 1 ohm in parallel or 4 ohms in series.

It's to give you the most flexibility when wiring multiple sub configurations. There's a lot of amps that are stable down to 1/2 or even 1/10 of an ohm.
 
To the OP, don't forget about all of your installation accessories online, as well.

They can be a lot cheaper if you buy those online, while you're at it.

I got the 100' spool of 0-gauge cabling you saw in my install photos a few pages ago for $70 shipped at redorbit last summer. That same cable is $5-10 a foot at stereo shops.

And for battery terminals, i recommend using the "Marine" screw-post battery terminals from napa for $3 a pair. They're just as good as anything they sell at stereo shops for 10x more money, and are all copper. Very nice.

And make sure to stock up on ring terminals, some decent speaker wire (you'll only need 10 feet, or so) a fuse, a grommet for your firewall, and RCA cables to run to the back (don't cheap out on these)
 
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Ok thats cool so I have a 1200 watt amp and a 1000 watt sub would it blow the sub if it i turned it up all the way?

And is there any way just to have this hooked up to like a tv with some speakers a dvd player or something so i just could play music off of it in my basement. Cause I got my license taken away until the end of august so i wont have them in there until then.
 
INTELCRAZY said:
Dual Corex said something about taking a computer PSU and wiring the amp up with that. I am going to do that.
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How do I do that and how would I hook it up I am a noob at this kind of stuff and instructions would be helpful. I have a a dell 305 watt powersupply would that work.
 
Like i said a few pages ago, that hifonics amp wont make 1/2 of what it's rated for, and subwoofers are generally underrated.

A 500w rms alpine type-r, for instance, will gladly take 1000w. And polekat, the tech support guy from kicker on caraudioforums.com is running 2500w rms to his pair of L7 12's which are rated for 750w rms.

As for running the amp inside, why not just wait till august to buy this stuff?
 
Jack Bauer said:
How do I do that and how would I hook it up I am a noob at this kind of stuff and instructions would be helpful. I have a a dell 305 watt powersupply would that work.
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This is not difficult math. A 305 watt power supply is only going to supply power for a 305w amp. And that's assuming 100% efficiency, which is impossible.

That amp's probably 60% efficient, and less at less than 100% output.
 
heyman421 said:
Like i said a few pages ago, that hifonics amp wont make 1/2 of what it's rated for, and subwoofers are generally underrated.

A 500w rms alpine type-r, for instance, will gladly take 1000w. And polekat, the tech support guy from kicker on caraudioforums.com is running 2500w rms to his pair of L7 12's which are rated for 750w rms.

As for running the amp inside, why not just wait till august to buy this stuff?
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Are you sure that amp wont push out 1200 watts how come it wont do you have proof of that?

Cause when I get enough money I am going to buy this stuff as soon as possible so my dad doesnt change his mind.
 
INTELCRAZY said:
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6639_Kenwood+eXcelon+KFC-XW1202DVC.html#

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8515_Kenwood+KAC-9103D.html#

I was thinking of getting this for my computer, does this look okay? How would I go about wiring this up?
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Coming from a huge kenwood fan, i would advise you to steer clear of kenwood speakers. They're amps and headunits are both great (i use both, in fact) but i've had terrible results with kenwood speakers in the past.

I use both a kenwood xxv-01d head unit, and a xxv-02A 4-channel amplifier for my components.

30018su.jpg
 
Jack Bauer said:
Are you sure that amp wont push out 1200 watts how come it wont do you have proof of that?

Cause when I get enough money I am going to buy this stuff as soon as possible so my dad doesnt change his mind.
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Yes, i USED a hifonics bxi2006D amplifier to power my kickers, it did nowhere near rated.

Their high-end stuff is decent, or so i've heard. But the brutus stuff is bunk.

It might do 800-900w on a good day.

And that's assuming your car's alternator can put out the amps to power it.

Are you even sure you HAVE an extra 100A to give to that amp? I had to put in a 240A alternator, that 0 gauge cable, and 2 extra batteries just to get that bxi2006D to hit 143dB with those kickers, which should have been a walk in the park.

30042xv.jpg


Trust me, i've tried going the cheap route, and if it looks too good to be true, it is. The hifonics are ok amps for the money, but there's a reason they're 1/3 the price of anything else watt for watt, and that's because they don't deliver.
 
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heyman421 said:
Yes, i USED a hifonics bxi2006D amplifier to power my kickers, it did nowhere near rated.

Their high-end stuff is decent, or so i've heard. But the brutus stuff is bunk.

It might do 800-900w on a good day.

And that's assuming your car's alternator can put out the amps to power it.

Are you even sure you HAVE an extra 100A to give to that amp? I had to put in a 240A alternator, that 0 gauge cable, and 2 extra batteries just to get that bxi2006D to hit 143dB with those kickers, which should have been a walk in the park.
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Give me proof on another forum that says that amp wont do 1200 watts if it wont do that then why do they even say it. I am getting a capacitor which should help with that.
 
A capacitor is just a battery, don't kid yourself.

The only way to get extra amperage and sustain your voltage is by increasing the Ampere allowance from your alternator. A capacitor does nothing but sustain voltage for a 1/20-1/10 a second it takes for the exciter relay to trigger your alternator to increase output.

Think about it, your alternator still has to charge the cap. It's just one more strain on your electrical system.
 
heyman421 said:
A capacitor is just a battery, don't kid yourself.

The only way to get extra amperage and sustain your voltage is by increasing the Ampere allowance from your alternator. A capacitor does nothing but sustain voltage for a 1/20-1/10 a second it takes for the exciter relay to trigger your alternator to increase output.

Think about it, your alternator still has to charge the cap. It's just one more strain on your electrical system.
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Is it that time of the month for you or what man. you seem to be an asshole here. All I am is asking questions here and you are being a smartass i dont know much about this stuff thats why i am asking.
 
heyman421 said:
the sub is dual 2, so run it in parallel to make 1 ohm

that hifonics wont put out 1/2 of what it advertises, tho

my bxi2006d was only pushing those L7's to 143dB, which is pathetic for an advertised 2000w

and what's that enclosure even tuned to? If you're going to use a prefabbed enclosure, i'd go sealed, as it's much harder to screw up a sealed enclosure.

And i can't say one way or the other about the pioneer, i've never heard one.

10.9mm on a "3000w" subwoofer leads me to believe that it's going to sound sloppy as hell, tho. It's definitely a SPL sub, as the xmax is the excursion where the cone of the sub stays perfectly linear, and thus creates 0% distortion. A subwoofer that SOUNDS GOOD, like the w7, for example, is able to travel more than 30mm in either direction linearly.
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My old Xplod had an xmax of 5mm lol. Course even at max excursion (bottoming out) it didnt move very far.

I can not say whether or not the Premier will indeed handle a 3000watt burp, but i do know it can handle some good power. And what do you mean it wont put out half of what its advertised? HiFonics is one of the best brands out there for amps, that and US Amps.

I cant say 100% that my amp is putting out 1200watts, it pry isnt due to my electrical limitation in my car, but i do know it puts out serious power...
 
Dual_Corex2 said:
My old Xplod had an xmax of 5mm lol. Course even at max excursion (bottoming out) it didnt move very far.

I can not say whether or not the Premier will indeed handle a 3000watt burp, but i do know it can handle some good power. And what do you mean it wont put out half of what its advertised? HiFonics is one of the best brands out there for amps, that and US Amps.

I cant say 100% that my amp is putting out 1200watts, it pry isnt due to my electrical limitation in my car, but i do know it puts out serious power...
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Do you have the same amp I am looking at getting? If not which one do you have? and is that the same sub that you have to?
 
let's put it this way

see this fuse i've circled

30042xvkm3.jpg


That's an 80A fuse. The most you can possibly pull through an 80A fuse is just under 1200w.

I blew 0 fuses during the 8 months i used that amplifier, and it's supposedly a 2,000w amplifier.
 
heyman421 said:
Yes, i USED a hifonics bxi2006D amplifier to power my kickers, it did nowhere near rated.

Their high-end stuff is decent, or so i've heard. But the brutus stuff is bunk.

It might do 800-900w on a good day.

And that's assuming your car's alternator can put out the amps to power it.

Are you even sure you HAVE an extra 100A to give to that amp? I had to put in a 240A alternator, that 0 gauge cable, and 2 extra batteries just to get that bxi2006D to hit 143dB with those kickers, which should have been a walk in the park.

30042xv.jpg


Trust me, i've tried going the cheap route, and if it looks too good to be true, it is. The hifonics are ok amps for the money, but there's a reason they're 1/3 the price of anything else watt for watt, and that's because they don't deliver.
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First off, you wouldnt be able to give the BXi606D 100A, it only has an 80A fuse....
 
it's a bxi2006d. It's supposed to make 2000w, and doesn't have a fuse.

I'm just saying, if a "2000w" hifonics can't make 1200w, there's no way a 1200w hifonics does either.
 
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